By Nancy Bauer
Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) spotted in Littleton!
EAB is a highly destructive, non-native insect that infests and kills all North American true ash species (Fraxinus spp.) including green, white, black and blue ash, and their cultivars (including “autumn purple ash,” a popular white ash varietal in Colorado).
The larval stage of EAB feeds under the bark of trees, cutting off the flow of water and nutrients. Infested trees gradually die over a period of approximately two to four years.
We all knew the time would arrive when the dreaded EAB would migrate down from Boulder, and apparently it has.
The good news is that there are effective, preventative treatments available.
High value, desirable Ash trees should be protected. Low value, non-desirable Ash trees should be removed as they will just become breeding sites for EAB as well as other insect pests.
For further info, go to colostate.edu and look up EAB Recourses or call the CSU Arapahoe County Extension at 303-730-1920
August Quick Gardening Tips
- Last month to fertilize roses. Get this done by August 15.
- Powdery mildew can be a problem for roses, lilacs, columbine, asters, and turf. Restrict late-day overhead watering by watering before noon to allow plant material to dry out.
- Weed your garden frequently. Watch to see that weeds do not grow so large that they drop seeds!!
- Add some mulch to trees and shrubs beds. Mulch reduces evaporation from the soil into the air and also keeps the soil slightly cooler.
- Mid to late August is a good time to seed cool-season lawns such as Kentucky Bluegrass and tall fescue.
- Wait until mid-August to fertilize Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue lawns. Apply one pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn. (You may delay this application until early September if you wish.)
- Garden pests to watch out for this month include white flies, spider mites and geranium (tobacco) budworms. Take action promptly to limit damage to plants.
- *Deep water rose bushes in the middle of the month. Then, gradually reduce watering and cease fertilization of rose bushes in order to prepare plants for winter dormancy.
When it is hot, the weeds arrive
Typical weeds in the hottest part of the growing season include spurge, purslane, mallow, bindweed and thistle. Except for bindweed and thistle, one of the best controls is simply using mechanical means to eradicate them-namely, pulling them out or hoeing, if the area permits.
But don’t pull that thistle or bindweed!
If you’ve ever noticed that some weeds seem to proliferate after you pull them, you’re right! This happens with certain weeds that have regenerative root systems. Literally, the more you pull them, the more weeds you’ll get back.
When it comes to thistle and field bindweed, stop before you pull! Both weeds have amazingly long root systems. When you pull these weeds, most of the root system remains underground and will simply grow more weeds to replace the one you pulled.
The best control for these weeds is applying a treatment that will kill the above-ground plant and the root system so that they will be dealt with for good. If these weeds are in the lawn, be sure to select a product that will not harm the grass.
Some herbicides used to zap the designated weed may be harmful to other plants due to drift. Be very careful what you spray and when, as even a slight breeze can take the product where you don’t want it.