By Nancy Bauer
Getting Ready for Winter
The plants in our landscapes are transferring energy to their root systems, preparing for winter, and getting ready for spring growth. We can also get our landscapes ready for the onset of winter. The following suggestions may help you with a winter preparation ‘checklist’:
Lawns
- Mow at a two-to-three-inch height. Research shows that mowing to less than two inches can result in decreased drought tolerance and higher incidence of insects, diseases, and weeds.
- During extended winter dry periods, it is good practice to water the lawn once per month, if the ground is thawed and will absorb water. Pay attention to exposed slopes, south or west facing exposures. These areas can become excessively dry and may be prone to spider mite infestation.
Trees
- Wrap trees for winter. Sudden fluctuations of temperature and water loss during winter can damage the bark of young thin-barked trees by killing new tissue. Sun scald injury usually appears on the southwest side of trees. Young honey locust, birch, maple, crabapple, and other thin-barked trees can be protected from sun scald by providing adequate water during winter months and using tree wrap for the first 2-3 years after trees are planted. The tree wrap will need to be removed in mid-April to prevent insect damage.
- Dead limbs can be pruned any time.
- Dispose of diseased leaves, especially if you had insect or disease problems this summer. Left on the ground, they can re-infect your plants in spring.
- If possible, water trees once per month, but only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees and water at mid-day to allow adequate saturation before freezing at night.
Perennials
- Perennials that provide winter interest or seed for the birds should be left standing until early spring, which also prevents the crowns from winter kill.
- Ornamental grasses add texture, as well as food and cover for birds in the fall and winter. Cut these back in early spring, before new growth emerges.
Mulch
- With roses, it is important to protect the crowns, before the first hard freeze occurs; a mixture of soil and leaves or pine needles covering the first 6-8” above ground works well.
- After soil has frozen, mulch other flowerbeds and specimen plants. Shredded wood products or leaf compost makes good mulch.
Watering
- In dry winters, all shrubs benefit from supplemental watering, but trees and shrubs planted this summer are still adapting and need more water than plants that have been in the soil for at least one year.
- For more information on watering during the winter, see CSU Extension Fact Sheet #7.211 Fall and Winter Watering.
Tool and Planters
- Take time to clean, oil and sharpen your gardening tools. Wash them with soap and water, using a wire brush to remove stubborn soil deposits. Steel wool is useful to remove rust.
- Sharpen pruners and shovel blades. This is also a good time to remove and sharpen mower blades.
- Before storing tools, wipe with a lubricating oil to prevent rust.
- Remember to empty ceramic pots to prevent cracking caused by frees and thaw cycles.